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14 Adventures of 2014

1/1/2015

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There is only one word that can truly summarize this year: adventure. There has been more change in the last 365 days than any other point in my life and with change comes spectacular opportunities. The year was filled with family, culture, food, photography, travel, celebrations, and huge life changes. It has been a beautiful journey and I have loved sharing it with you. Here are 14 AMAZING things that made 2014 an epic year.

14. Rode an Elephant & Got Chased by Monkeys

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Not too far from my new home is a park where you can visit a variety of different animals. Halwga National Park is most well known for it monkey filled area where you can drive through and meet creatures along the way. We spent an afternoon feeding monkeys out the car window and getting to know the elephants that we were lucky enough to get a chance to ride on. 

13. Help Portrait & FotoMarathon

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I participated in two photography events this year. The first was FotoMarathon Yangon where we were challenged to go out in groups and take photos around town based on specific themes that were sent to us every two hours. You can read all about it here. Shortly after that I helped lead a group of students in creating a Help-Portrait event. This is a worldwide initiative that I also participated in when I was in Maine. The event involves taking photos for families who would not normally be able to afford professional photography, we invited the local staff and trishaw drivers from the school, dressed them up, did their makeup and hair, took their portraits, and printed out photographs for them to go home with that day. It was a beautiful experience that was not about taking photographs but about giving them. (Post coming soon)

12. Taunggyi Fire Balloon Festival

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As many of the best things do, my trip up to Tanuggi for the famous Fire Balloon Festival came very spontaneously as a weekend getaway with my friend Ashley. Thousands of people flock to the otherwise quiet town of Tanuggi each year to witness and participate in the traditional act of launching fire balloons. It was an experience like no other. Read about the whole festival here (videos included).

11. Watched Amanda & Josh Exchange Vows

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The hardest day of homesickness I have had was the day of Amanda and Josh's wedding. Luckily we have amazing technology now that allowed me to watch the entire event. I stayed up all night since there is a 12 hour time difference and was able to skype/facetime in for everything from getting ready, formal pictures, ceremony, reception, cake, toasts, dance party and everything in between. Although I wish I could have been by my little sister's side and joined in with my family I was certainly celebrating from afar. Photo credit to Pipyr Photo.

10. New food. SO much new food.

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Myanmar was certainly not love at first taste, it has taken quite a while to find the true gems of the cuisine but now that we have there is no going back! Tofu Noway, Kay-O, Tomato Salad, Steamed Dumplings, Fried Tofu, Mohinga, and so much more. This year has truly been an adventure for my tastebuds alone now if only I could adjust to the spices.

9. Safari in Africa

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No trip to Africa is complete without a Safari and I completely understand why. There is no experience like that of watching a baby zebra nuzzle it's mother or a herd of elephants protecting their young. Sure I've seen most of these animals in zoos before but being able to watch them in their environment, in their world can't compare. My favorite were the giraffes with their long legs and their even longer necks, seeing them galloping around on their stilt-like legs was quite the site.

8. Honeymoon in Cancun

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Although we were crunched for time after our wedding with only two months before the big move we wanted to take a breather and enjoy married life. With our big adventure right around the corner we decided the perfect honeymoon would be relaxing on the beach with drinks in our hands so we headed to the best place for it, an all-inclusive resort in Cancun, Mexico. We spent five beautiful days with our feet in the sand, swimming in the spectacular pools, drinking all sorts of tasty beverages, indulging in choice restaurants, and enjoying our new time together as a married couple. Although it was hard to pull off (scheduling and other wise) this was the absolute best wedding choice we made and I will always look back on this time fondly. See the rest of the photos here.

7. Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival

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Unforgettable experiences are around every corner of my new life in Myanmar, but certainly one of the most spectacular has been the trip we took in October to Inle Lake. We were very fortunate to visit at the time of the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival which is a celebration that involves ferrying around five giant golden buddha statues to each town in the lake. The lake is so big that it takes almost a month to complete the whole route. Not only did we get to watch the parade but we also got to experience the rest of the stunning Inle Lake including traditional leg-rowing fishermen, long-neck women weaving, traditional silversmiths, hand paper weavers, the floating gardens, and my favorite, the crumbling pagodas of Indein. (PS Blog post coming soon with sooooo many more photos)

6. Welcomed Baby Zane into the World

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Zane Andrew Simmons joined the world on March 8th. I can't believe this little peanut is over 9 months old now! He is such a sweet little boy who has brightened every life around him since he arrived most certainly the lives of his parents, my sister, Andrea, and my brother-in-law, Steve. I have missed him dearly since I have been away, luckily Andrea has been great at sharing about all the milestones - big and small - with pictures, stories, and videos. Can't wait until I get to snuggle this little guy again!

5. Photographed 5 Stunning Weddings

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Capturing the moments of one of the most special days in a persons life is an honor and privilege, I know that sounds cheesy but it honestly is. The joy, celebration, and love that fills a wedding is unparalleled. Leaving behind Adorn photography was very difficult for me because I truly loved every minute of photographing wedding and portraits. Within the first few months of the year I was invited by five spectacular couples to photograph their wedding days and each one was so very special. I am certain about few things in my future but one of them is that I know I will return to photographing weddings at some point in my life. For now I will enjoy using my passion to capture the world around me through my travel photography.

4. Spent the Holidays with Renee in Tanzania

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Ask either of us just a few years ago if we thought we would be spending the holidays together on safari in Africa or on the beaches of Zanzibar and both Renee, my sister, and I would have simply laughed. Such an unlikely story for two small-town New Englanders. Yet, this is exactly where we found ourselves this holiday season, see just two weeks before my winter break from school Kim flew back to Maine to be with her ill father which left the perfect opportunity for me to hop the Indian Ocean to visit Renee. Renee has been living in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania for almost two years now where she freelances web design when she is not busy working on her passion of free diving and the resulting website www.seaunseen.com. We spent three amazing weeks celebrating the holidays, on safari, hanging out on the beach, diving, and having some much needed sister time.

3. Found Juicing and Lost 50 Pounds

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It was actually December of 2012 that I started my health and fitness journey, dedicating most of 2013 to challenging myself physically and educating myself on proper health and nutrition. In January of this year I made the ultimate commitment to a 30 day juice fast and my life has not been the same since. Juicing allowed me to realign my expectations of food and reset my appetite. It not only gave me results in appearance but in self-confidence and strength of mind. With my juicing I finally felt in control of my body. I took the beginning of this year to fully commit to myself, focusing on goals like working out everyday and setting up a regular meditation schedule. It was an amazing time that I hope to revisit now that my life has settled down. 


2. Moved 8151 miles away to Yangon, Myanmar

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Without a doubt, the craziest thing that happened this year was packing up our belongings and moving to -literally- the other side of the world. Following my dream to teach abroad, Kim and I picked up and left everything behind (that couldn't fit in our 6 suitcases) to explore the world. Three days and 8151 miles later we found ourselves in a land like nothing we ever knew before. Myanmar has been everything we never expected, our time filled with awe, frustrations, curiosity, and a whole lot of laughter. 

1. Married my Love

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Without a doubt the most important day of 2014 was May 10th, the day that I married my love, Kimberly. As with any journey, who you travel with can be more important than any destination and nothing could have been half as wonderful this year without this amazing person by my side. Having someone to share in all of the adventures I have had this year and will continue to have into 2015 and beyond it the best thing I could ask for. 

(Read all about our full wedding day here. Photo credit to Justine Johnson Photography.)
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Rock, Roaming, & Restaurant | Week 8 Update

11/12/2014

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Golden Land

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The epic sunsets here turn the whole world golden. We were lucky enough to catch this one off the balcony of a friends house and enjoy it with this group of beautiful people. Myanmar is referred to by some as the Golden Land which is a reference to all of the golden pagodas but I think it fits for this reason also. 
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Punk Rock

A Punk Rock Photography Exhibition in Myanmar? Of course I had to check this out when I was invited by a friend and fellow teacher. Her boyfriend is a part of a Myanmar punk rock band. This band along with a number of others makes up a movement called Jam It! Completely made up of independent bands, Jam It! started as a small group of musicians getting together and playing their music and now they play in public venues for free to promote their music and create a scene.

It was a small space on the fourth floor of some unmarked building but as soon as you stepped into the stairwell you could hear the music streaming down below. Along with acoustic performances by members of various bands, the space was filled with huge prints of photojournalistic photographs that were taken at the different Jam It! events. It was an interesting night, defiantly not my usual scene but defiantly worth it. 

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Roaming About

On Saturday we wanted to stay close so we decided on an adventure in our own neighborhood. I had heard about a giant reclining Buddha that was near us. After investigating further I found out that not only was it near us but it was just a short walk away. With the help of three different Yangon maps and Google maps I set on a route in my head and we headed out. After turning down a side street off of a busy main road and before we knew it we were in the middle of nowhere. We found ourselves on a dirt road with tropical foliage on both sides. We past a meditation center and a monastery, we stopped into an art gallery inside someone’s house and found some crumbling structures. We saw monks collecting their Alms (donations from neighbors) and lots of beautiful tropical flowers. It was a very interesting walk.
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People who don't have the money to put up razor wire to protect their houses will spread broken glass on the ledges of the surrounding walls. I loved the juxtaposition with the flowers growing right next to the glass. 
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It was a very cool walk and nice to be out and about without seeing any vehicles.  As abruptly as the country scenery started, we turned a corner and were right on the heels of a crazy busy road. I wasn't really sure where to go at this point but luckily enough there was a picture of a reclining Buddha just ahead of us so we followed the sign and easily found what we were looking for. 
Our Experience at Chaukhtatgyi Reclining Buddha
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New Beginnings

Monday was Kim's first day of work. The restaurant is still being put together but she went in to start arranging the kitchen and develop the menu. It was very stressful for her to see all the work that had to be done with such a short deadline (they want to open in a week!). But she also really enjoyed beginning a job that she knows she will love. 

It was also the first day of us having a cleaner. Kim made arrangements with a lady named Saroja who cooks for some of the other teachers, Kim will be giving her cooking lessons once a week or so in exchange for her doing our laundry and washing dishes (our two least favorite chores). It was very strange to come home to someone else in the house since Kim has greeted me at the door almost every day since we have been here. 

Changes are difficult when you are trying to get settled still but luckily these are all good changes. 
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Long Time Coming

With Kim working late to get ready for the opening at the restaurant I was left to the task of making my own dinner on Wednesday. If you know me at all you know that this is a BIG challenge for me. There is a reason why I married a chef after all. Usually for dinner I would just eat whatever I could find in the cupboards or order something in. Kim had been trying to teach me some easy dishes that I can make for myself for dinner before we moved but it is so difficult here because we don't have our usual pantry of ingredients and it is really overwhelming. But I had a couchsurfer over named Emi who convinced me that we could make our own dinner. So three hours later we enjoyed a chicken, roasted veggies, and rice. I was pretty proud of myself. 
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Restaurant Preparations 

The restaurant was certainly coming along but there was still a bunch to do. 
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Only 24 hours after the kitchen was put together Kim was asked to create a tasting for the owners of the restaurant and their staff. Needless to say it was a miracle all of it came together due to the crazy circumstances of having to shop for and stock a full kitchen, teach the sous chefs (who don't speak any English by the way), and prepare a meal for a dozen people in such a short amount of time. On top of that this was the first time any of these people would be tasting her cooking so needless to say it was a bit stressful. But if anyone could pull it off that would be our lovely Chef Kimmi. 
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The tasting was delicious of course, she served us chicken tenders, onion rings, french fries, sweet potato fries, three different kinds of sandwiches, and fresh pasta and marinara sauce. Yum yum yum.
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The Circular Railway | Yangon's Circle Line

10/14/2014

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The Circular Train is a railroad that loops in a circle around Yangon. It starts at a big station close to downtown and travels all the way up to the outskirts of the city, then it curves back around, passes my school, and ends back at the station.

A couple weekends ago we decided to give the Circle Line a ride and we headed off with our friends Sharon, Steven and their two kids, Hazel and Kean. When we arrived at the station we had a bit of difficulty finding where to buy tickets, after going through the wrong entrance then standing in the wrong line for 15 minutes, a kind station worker pointed us in the right direction and soon we were on platform 7 waiting at the correct counter. The ticket seller was very helpful and asked if we wanted to take the “aircon” train or the “local” train. We had heard of these options and knew that the “local” train would give us more of an authentic experience so we chose that one without hesitation. We were told by many different sources that we (as foreigners) would need a crisp $1 bill (usd) as fare for the ride. This, luckily, is no longer the case – seriously, who carries around crisp $1 usd bills?? We only paid 200 kyat a piece, which is about $0.20 usd for the ride.

After getting our tickets we waited on the large platform for about 20 minutes until the man who helped us came to show us to our train that had just arrived. We happily jumped on and spread out on the long benches that lined the whole length of the train. The benches were right under the windows facing each other leaving a large aisle in the middle. We weren’t waiting long before the train wheels began slowly turning, creaking with age.

The train pulled out of the station and began a steady “clunk, clunk” rhythm as it meandered on the tracks. Yangon has less than a handful of high-rises making it difficult to use landmarks as notes of where you are in the city, so starting almost immediately after we left the station and lasting the whole ride it was impossible to tell which area of the city we were in. As we got used to the steady pace of the slow-moving train, we were happy to sit back and stair out the windows to gaze as the town passed by.

There were no big sights to see or exciting events, instead we watched the day to day lives of the local people. Often we saw people crossing the tracks or waiting on the road for the train to pass by. It was an echo of what we see in the residential neighborhood that my school is in. After only a few minutes we pulled up to the first stop. A simple station marked by a long bench on either side of the tracks and a walking bridge that spread over the top to connect the sides. There was a quite bustling of people moving around, getting on or off, hurry to their next destination. The train only stopped for a few minutes before setting off again.

Like most other times when we walk around town, we got constant stares from people all around us. Especially being with the children caused us to get a lot of attention (Myanmar people just LOVE kids!). I don’t mind it very much. I feel like I stare at them enough they have the right to be curious and stare back at me. The best part is that whenever I see children staring at me I figured out that if I smile and wave I will always get the same back. Then if they see my camera they usually will make a pose of some sort. It’s great! At one point while I was walking down to the other end of the train I noticed a local trying to get a picture of me on his phone so I stopped and let him take one then followed suit and took my own of him. It actually makes me feel like a celebrity.

Before long the scenery changed from buildings to neighborhoods, from neighborhoods to houses, houses to scattered structures, scattered structures to just fields. This was the first time that we had seen any sort of country setting in Yangon and it was a welcomed scene. We enjoyed the greenery before the train made the loop and started heading back into town.

There were so many interesting people on and around the train. At one point a man came and sat next to us with a wicker basket that was latched at the handles. He was there for a good half an hour and when he stood up to leave he grabbed his bag and it gave a loud quack – we hadn’t even noticed that there was a live duck in the bag!! He was not the only one to bring poultry on the train, there was also a man carrying two large buckets that ended up being filled with chickens! 

After about two hours of riding we were pretty hungry and I was so excited when we stopped and some people selling snacks got on board. I hurried down half of the train to catch them and buy the snacks. One person was selling something similar to Chinese fried noodles but in one big piece – it was tasty. The other person was selling what turned out to be a thinly fried tofu that was cut up into bit sized pieces and served with spicy sauce. I didn’t really care for that one but Steven and Sharon, who are both vegetarians, loved it!

Three hours after we left the station we rounded back into downtown. I managed to guestimate the stops and we hopped off the one right before the large station which landed us in the heart of Bogyoke market – exactly where we were headed. All in all it was a lovely way to spend a Saturday morning, calm and slow paced. This was a great way to get out of the hustle and bustle and see the city from a different point of view. 

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Downtown Yangon Walking Tour

9/13/2014

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On Saturday Zoe (the middle school principle), along with a few other returning staff, led our group of new teachers on a walking tour of downtown Yangon. We spent five hours traipsing around the busy streets of the largest city area in Myanmar. We started at what used to be Trader’s Hotel, one of the highest end hotels in the country, we walked down for a view of Sule Pagoda which is in the center of the city in the middle of a round-about. Turning down another road, Zoe pointed out many of the government buildings and important places including the independence monument (a symbol of Myanmar’s independence from the British).
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With the country just recently opened, it is under constant construction on every corner. Literally everywhere you look there is something under construction. Here is one site we came across. 
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It was such a fascinating walk with so much to see around ever corner. 
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We came across a few stalls that were selling books which seemed kind of strange. Zoe explained that when the country was closed there was strict control over reading material of all sorts. Now that it is open and the regulations are majorly loosened, the people love to read. It is a privilege to them. So they copy books and prints hundreds of more of them (they certainly don't follow copyright laws here) then sell them at low rates so everyone can afford to read. 
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There were so many fantastic buildings, bunches of them left over from the time of the British rule of the country. All of them crumbling, peeling, cracking, and covered with vines and/or mold from the tropical climate. 
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We passed many embassies on the way to The Strand Hotel, another high-class establishment, where we rested our feet and viewed the fabulous art gallery. 
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Crossing several busy lanes of traffic we passed through a small wet market on our way to the riverside. Zoe showed us where we can take the ferry over to another town across the river.
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Only staying near the river for a few minutes we continued through the busy Yangon. There was so much to see! At one point we saw a group of men playing some sort of game on the street. After I had snapped a photo they asked others to please not take any photos so I am lucky to have this one. 
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We also saw a couple "pay phones." If people want to make calls but don't have a phone they can find one of these stalls where the ladies will let you make a call for a price. These are regular house hold phones that are attached to landlines that run all the way from the street to a nearby building. 
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There were plenty of stalls selling all sorts of things to eat. From snacks in the form of bagged chips and what not to fried food to meat on sticks that you put in boiling broth to cook. 
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 We meandered through the streets for quite a long while more until we came to the Indian Spice Market (I believe the true name for this is Theingyi Zay Market). It had many tiny entrances all along the walls between stalls selling all sorts of goods, I wouldn’t have even noticed how to get in if they hadn’t pointed it out. The inside of this market was pure madness. It was so cramped and had so many people in it I have no idea how people manage their way around. I barley made my way in before turning back around to come out. Kim had a similar experience went into find the spices with Sharon. It is very overwhelming being around so many people. 
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I had been carrying around little K who is about two years old and it is amazing how much the locals just LOVED him! Almost everyone we walked by, especially women, would gawk and smile at him. He was given many small gifts, a banana, a flower, a fruit, along with multiple people asking to hold him. Whenever we passed someone who was close enough, which was all the time, they would touch him or squeeze his cheeks. We even got our picture taken. It was a strange experience and I was very glad that he didn’t mind it because otherwise it could have been awful for him. We enjoyed looking at the produce and other foods for sale outside of the market.
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After the Indian Spice Market we traveled another twenty minutes or so to Bogyoke Aung San Market. This is probably the second biggest tourist attraction in Yangon (second only to Shwedegon Pagoda). It is a huge exotic place that sprawls over a couple levels and a large area of land. Defiantly designed for tourists it has a huge expanse of shops that include high-end jewelry stores, many shops to buy fabric to be made into clothing, and so many souvenir shops including lacquer ware, shoulder bags, puppets, slippers, gems, and t-shirts. We probably won’t be returning to this market anytime soon because it had a strong commercial feel to it. Plus there were more touts here than anywhere else we had seen in the city (a tout is someone who persistently tries to get you to buy their product – they many follow you around pushing their merchandise in your face for a long period of time and are very annoying).  
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Right around the corner from Bogyoke we found a phenomenal Shan Noodle shop where we both had a bowl of Shan Noodles that were amazing! We also shared some dumplings that were simply to die for along with some fresh mango juice and fried tofu (that Kim especially enjoyed)! Here, drool over some pictures of the deliciousness: 
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We were very thankful for Zoe and the others to show us around town but it was an exhausting and over-stimulating experience. I’m glad we kind of have the lay of the land down and we will defiantly go downtown another weekend soon so we can have a (hopefully) more relaxed time getting to know the area. 
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Beginings, Bootie Bootie, & Beer | Week 2 Update

9/7/2014

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Our second weekend in Myanmar was just as busy as the first. Bright and early Saturday morning we met with the other new teachers to get a personal walking tour of the downtown area from Zoe and a few other long-term ISMers. Read all about it and see the very cool pictures I captured here: Downtown Yangon Walking Tour
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Sunday we finally had our first full day to relax and settle in, we slept in, went grocery shopping, hung up photos, and had general time to just be. 

First Day of School


The first day of school came quick and ready or not, Monday morning the students bursted through the doors. Even though a small part of me was saying "yeah, you got this, you've done this plenty before" the rest of me was anticipating the unexpected that came with teaching a new grade level (from elementary to high school), a new school level (from public to private), a new school culture (from government run to international, for-profit), a new set of societal expectations (from rural Maine to urban Myanmar), and of course just a new set of students all together. 

I had heard in my research that the students here had a higher regard for their education and I was thrilled to find out that this was true. I told many people when I took this position that there was no way I would be able to teach High School in the States because of the attitude towards education (not being respected, taken for granted, etc.). I am very happy to say that it is different here for many reasons including the fact that this is a private school so parents are paying for their kids to come here and as we all know if you have to pay for something you appreciate it more. Also because teachers in this culture are respected just as monks, doctors, and government officials are. I had been very much looking forward to finally be respected for the career I chose instead of just being passed along and given the bare necessities that so many teachers are. 

And the first week of school did not disappoint. The students were eager and welcoming, their skill levels were far exceeding my expectations, and they were attentive in the way that showed me they were actually interested in being there. We started right off into exploring the element of line in my Art 1 (Art Foundations) class. I hope to soon post the unit in its entirety but here are a few photos of my classrooms and the students creating.
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ISM is an all english speaking school that teaches an American Standards-Based Curriculum to prepare students for American (western) colleges. What that means is that I am teaching the same curriculum here as I would if I were teaching at a high school back in the States. 95% of the student population are from local families who are very (VERY) wealthy. The other 5% are children of the teachers here. We have a "normal" school schedule that starts at 8:15 and goes until 3:00 every Monday - Friday with a good amount of holidays/vacation days off throughout the August - May. (Note: we do start the school year about 4 weeks earlier than in the States but we also get out about 3 weeks earlier. We have 190 contact days compared to 185 for schools in the States). The high school works on a block schedule where we have the same classes every other day, but they move around the periods within the day so we don't always have the same class in the morning/afternoon. It can be a bit confusing but I really like it for the most part. 

I teach 3 sections of Art 1 (Art foundations) that is the first art class that every student in school "must" take for their graduation requirements therefore this class consists of mostly freshmen. I also teach 2 sections of AP 2D Design which is an Advanced Placement course where students are working on building a portfolio to submit to the College Board at the end of the year. If they do well on this they can get college credits for the course. Although AP 2D Design can be taught as more of a studio arts course where you do anything from drawing to painting to collage and so forth, ISM asked me to teach it more as a digital arts course. This is very exciting because that means I can finally teach Photography and Digital Editing - two of my strong points as an artist! I am beyond happy to finally be able to share my photography knowledge with young artists. 

To kick off my AP 2D class we dove right into digital photography in my unit called "Beyond Auto" where we learn about the different camera settings and how to fully control our photographs. Again, more to come on this but for now here are a few photos of the students practicing and learning.
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Eat


For food this week I had a combination of eating on the street at the stalls near school and eating in the cafiteria. Wherever I decide to go it is usually the same types of choices: white rice, fried rice, or noodles - a handful of different meats in oily, often times spicy, sauce (chicken with the bones, beef, mutton, or pork) - and a variety of various veggie dishes, again usually in an oily sauce. These are some of the meals I had this week:
Luckily I have a phenomenal wife who is a phenomenal chef and cooks us equally phenomenal food from home. Kim has been struggling  for the past week or so in terms of trying to find the basic ingredients that she is used to like sugar, flour, brown sugar, pepper, and so forth. Recently, after many trips to different grocery stores, she has realized that they do in fact have such ingredients but they are all named different things or are just in different languages. She is very happy to finally be building up our supply of kitchen goods that she is used to. 

The interesting thing is that it is significantly cheeper to eat out than to cook ourselves. We can go out and get a meal for $1-$2. The downside is that it is always rice or noodles or noodles or rice and that has gotten old pretty fast. So it is wonderful to come home to Kim's home cooking. Here is one dish she made this week:
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Bootie bootie


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Thursday night we were walking back from getting a few things from the supermarket and decided to go for a drink. On the way down to the market we had seen a couple buildings with flashy lights coming from the inside and big signs at the entrance saying things like "DJ" "Spy Wine" "Club" etc. So, silly us, we thought they must be dance clubs. Heading up to the doorway we passed a half a dozen security, which you think would have been our first clue that something was a little off, but the thing is here businesses tend to have a large amount of employees that are just for directing parking. However, when we arrived at the front door there was just a small lobby that looked strange. So we asked the security guy who opened the door for us "Beer?" and his response was priceless: "Yes, yes, bootie bootie." Without skipping a beat we turned and walked back out to the main road. Our laughter lasted all the way to the next building where we decided to play it safe and ask one of the security guards (you think we would have learned by now) hanging around the entrance to the parking lot. Kim: "Beer?"   Guard proceeding to do a foul hand gesture "Titty Bar."

At this point we gave up all hopes at finding beer and just headed back home before we found anything worse. On the way we saw two other ISM teachers having a beer at a nice local establishment and decided that must mean it was safe. After we got our cold drinks we decided to order some fried chicken and what came was probably one of the worst meals I have been served since being here. We got a plate of what Kim calls "fried assholes" because it was a plate of bones from the worst part of the chicken with barley any meat on them. It was pretty ridiculous - even more so when they charged us $4 for them! I know that doesn't seem like a lot but when I can eat a full lunch for less than $1, four is quite a lot for a plate of deep fried bones. At least the drinks were cold. And that was our Thursday night Titty Bar experience. 
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19th Street


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To celebrate finishing my first week of school and being in Myanmar for two weeks, Friday night we met up with Shelly and Luis (two new ISM teachers) and grabbed a taxi over to the famous 19th street. 19th Street is well known in town, and in the guidebooks, as a place where the locals come to drink late into the evenings. There are a series of locally owned drinking establishments spilling out into the street with their miniature plastic chairs and tables wet from recent rain. The word was that this was the place to come for a night of drinking festivities on the cheap.

It was a drizzly evening, which made the others that were going to join us decide otherwise, but the four of us decided to make a go for it and I’m glad we did. Because of the rain, some of the places were closed – or at least not as busy as I imagine they usually are – but most had a fair amount of customers with beers in their hands. We walked down to the end of the street, out to the hustle and bustle of a busy main road lined with street carts and vendors in every direction. This may not be an up-all-night kind of place (like Bangkok) but it certainly wasn’t the “everyone is in bed by 8 pm” city that I had read about before coming.

After walking back down to the end of the road we started on, we decided to kick back at one of the places towards the end of the “strip.” Kim and Luis got a draft beer as Shelly and I sipped some wine coolers. Conversations were warm and flowing in strange languages all around us (from other expats and locals alike), our talk revolved around where we call “home,” hopes and dreams for Myanmar, and our beginning impressions of this strange new land. Drinks were cold and smiles were large.

All of a sudden I felt sick to my stomach. Sure that I was going to hurl I excused myself to the bathroom, but before I got there I got so dizzy that I blacked out a bit and half sat/half fell on to a set of steps. I knew that there was almost certainty that I would get sick in the first few weeks of being here but the urgency of which it came didn’t seem to fit that of food poising or the like. Taking a couple minutes to  I then recalled feeling these symptoms before. A couple other times in the past 10 or so years I had these indicators of stomach sickness and sudden dizziness. The relating cause of this, I quickly learned after having a full-fledged fainting spell when I was 15, was the heat. Although I feel like I have a great immune system and I rarely get ill, I don’t even get motion sickness, but something about intense heat makes my body start shutting down. I regained my sight enough to stand up and help myself outside where I sat (on a miniature plastic stool) in the rain, peeling my shirt off to reveal only a skin colored tank top undershirt. The locals stared (they usually don’t show their shoulders, let alone something so low cut) but I didn’t care, I just needed to cool off.

A couple minutes of sitting in the breeze and rain later I was feeling a bit better as we decided to hop on over to another little place just next door. The rest of the evening faded away with $0.80 mojitos and men broke into a dance as a trolley with loud American hip hop music rolled through. 

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    Alisa & Kim

    Two expats living, teaching, and eating their way across this beautiful world

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